One star is kind.
The New York Times review of
the Second Avenue Deli focuses more on other joints, better sandwiches and the latkes of yesteryear rather than on the disappointments of now.
Hizzoner Ed Koch comes off sounding like a glutton, the man will eat anything Jewish; Nora Ephron is an ad for Barney Greengrass in her neighborhood, and Laura Shapiro (the Julia Child biographer, whom I encountered at the Miami Book International) gets the shaft, we don’t know what she thinks.
Frank Bruni: “And I realized that we weren’t so much eating in a specific restaurant as passing through a communal storehouse of memories, on a bridge of babkas from the past to the future.” i.e the food isn’t great but we had a nice time talking about how great it wasn’t.