Bruni’s been doing some quirky reviews of late by visiting city Teflons: joints that regardless of any review, good, bad, or indifferent, will still do great covers. Two weeks ago it was the beloved Katz's. Last week, it was the beloved Gramercy Tavern and less surprisingly Brun-meister left the three stars it garnered under William Grimes.
His NYT review is a love letter of sorts; I’m glad to see it because it’s a long-time favorite resto of this Allergic Girl. Not because the food is allergen-free. Hardly. But as Bruni points out: “The service … with its trademark blend of coddling and unpretentiousness, a mix that Gramercy nailed well before other restaurants...explains a lot about diners’ loyalty to the restaurant.”
That service component makes all the difference especially for a diner with food allergies. In the last few years, I took so many clients to the front diner room for a lunch that I even had a favorite waitress who remembered my dietary needs. Gotta love that.
Hmm so what's this post about? I think I’m just thinking aloud about Bruni, kind of a virtual head-scratch: what is his grand plan review-wise? What is the Times thinking? Where is this all going? Who will he hit next?